On a recent business/ pleasure trip to Florence, my wife and I chose,or at least she persuaded me to choose accommodation in a self catered Florence apartment, rather than a hotel. The location was very central allowing us to walk from the train station, just 300 meters away.We had caught the train from Rome where we live, as it takes only one hour and forty five minutes and saves the stress of driving.
We walked to the apartment in Via Rondinelli, just around the corner from Via Tornabuoni, the most elegant street of Florence, famous for its luxury brand shops.
When we met the owner Gianluca at the apartment, the first thing we noticed were the breathtaking original rich Fresco’s covering the high ceilings, in the masterbedroom and the living room, which looked like they were new – freshly painted.However we were very suprised when he informed us that he had taken down the false ceilings during the refurbishment,uncovering, purely by chance these magnificent works hidden since the 1940’s.Apparently that’s when apartment owners were moving away from the ornate typical Florentine influences towards modern simple lines; we were amazed.
Today of course, it’s exactly the opposite, all that has changed back,thank god and the small exclusive city of Florence is again concentrating on retaining and enhancing the wonderful history of Florence, making the city what it was and what it is today – like no other city on earth.
This was also evident as Gianluca was showing us around this wonderful fully refurbished apartment; all the modern amenities were there including WI FI and satellite TV, yet the furnishings, the floors, the bathrooms and the all over look of the apartment although all newly restored and refurnished, seemed to retain it’s typical Florentine flavour and ancient warmth.
The craftsmen of Florence still exist today and have fortunately inherited their skills over generations, which is why new apartment refurbishments do not spoil the charm of the ancient buildings. The antique wooden tables and chairs have been expertly restored.
We unpacked and relaxed, checked our e-mail, then went to explore the surrounding area.
All the famous lanmarks were close by like, The Cathedral, Battistero, The Giotto Bell-tower, Santa Maria Novella Church, Signoria Palace, The Old Bridge, Uffizi and Pitti Palace were all within walking distance, from our Florence apartment ,though on this trip we only had time to visit Uffizzi; the famous Medici’s family landmark,a breathtaking building dedicated to the history of the Medicics private art collection,dating back as far as the 1200’s.
The Uffizzi is always a must see; paintings and sculptures by many great masters, Leonardo Da Vinci and Botticelli to name just two.
We chose a homely restaurant called Spada just a few minutes from our apartment for lunch, which was delicious; some proscuitto and buffalo mozzarella cheese followed by riboletta an old Tuscan dish; soup made with vegetables and bread, finished off in the oven. The small jug of house wine was a must to accompany the meal.
We decided that lunch and the Uffizzi was a big enough day and we didn’t want to go out to another restaurant that evening.
There was a fully equipped kitchen in the apartment, but no one felt like cooking, so we picked up a few delicious bits and pieces at one of the original Italian delis on the way back to the apartment; some salami, fresh bread and some excellent cheeses.Local Tuscan food is hard to beat.
We also bought a DVD (there was a player in the apartment ) and decided to relax,with the delicious local tuscan food and a bottle of wine which Gianluca had welcomed us with on check in.
As soon as we entered the apartment with our supplies,ready to settle in,although we had only spent an hour or so there previously,we were “home”, this was it, the We had left the heating on,at a perfect 22 degrees, very cosy coming in from the Florence December.
We didn’t walk past a reception desk,we had our own keys, took our own lift to our own apartment on the first floor; no tip.
No one was going to knock on the door to ask if we wanted the bed “turned down” – once inside we could do as we pleased and as I walked into the apartment for the second time that day, I was actually thinking to myself that there is something about this style of apartment accommodation that agrees with me, it’s more welcoming, it’s larger, it’s easier, it’s certainly less expensive and it’s peaceful.
We were actually in control;our own home,even if it’s temporary,being in this apartment in Florence feels good, like it’s our own, something that not even a five star hotel could ever offer.
Jill my wife was checking her e-mail, I threw off my shoes, opened the wine and flopped on the couch, very relaxed.
In the morning we slept late, because we could, there was no hotel dining area dowstairs that was serving breakfast until ten o’clock only and then you starve.
I brought my wife the mandatory cup of tea in bed and we took our time getting ready, looking forward to a real cappuccinno and a hot wedge of superior “frittata” made with eggs, cheese and vebetables at Procacci, the famous cafe, a landmark in Florence, located in the elegant Via Tornabuonia, unchanged since 1885, the cafes fascade and interior are exactly as they were, still serving the best food and wine. The cafe was bought by the Italian winery Antinori seven years ago, not only to sell it’s wine, but also to protect and retain this establishments history, like many do in Via Tornabuoni.
Locals and tourists alike come here for their breakfast, lunch snacks and a glass of wine in the evening, accompanied by small tartuffo rolls,simply delicious and something that only Procacci can do and are know for.
It was time to take the train back to Rome and as we were packing, my wife said to me”well we made the right decisison yet again choosing an apartment”. I tended to agree with her as I was quietly thinking to myself, I am going to miss this place.
For independant travelers that enjoy apartment accommodation for the same reasons we did, you’ll find a selection of all price ranges in Florence at www.florence-accom.com